What is a Jessner Peel? (And Why Your Skin Might Need One)

AlumierMD Glow Peel 

The Jessner Peel at PHI - AlumierMD Glow Peel 

If you’ve spent any time looking into clinical skincare, you’ve probably noticed that we have a bit of an obsession with the "glow." We’re all chasing that healthy, bright, even-toned skin, but sometimes a high-end serum or a basic facial just doesn’t cut it — especially here in Calgary, where the dry air and high altitude can make our skin look a little tired and "weathered" faster than we’d like.

When over-the-counter products don’t work, that’s usually when we start talking about chemical peels. And if you’re looking for a treatment with a serious track record of success, you’re looking for the Jessner Peel.

So, what is a Jessner Peel?

The Jessner Peel is a light-to-medium-depth chemical peel developed by German-American dermatologist Max Jessner (hence the name). He was looking for a way to treat skin issues without invasive surgery, and he landed on a very specific, potent blend of three ingredients.

Unlike a lot of "lunchtime peels" that only use one type of acid, the original Jessner is a precise combo of:

  • 14% salicylic acid: This is the deep-cleaner. It’s oil-soluble, so it gets right into your pores to break up congestion and oil.

  • 14% lactic acid: This alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) sweeps away dead surface cells while simultaneously pulling moisture into the skin (which is a lifesaver for our Calgary climate).

  • 14% resorcinol: This component helps break down rough patches and lifts stubborn pigmentation.

The Jessner Peel at Phi - AlumierMD Glow Peel 

At PHI Medical Aesthetics, we offer AlumierMD’s profile of medical-grade chemical peels with varying strengths for nearly every skin type and concern. The AlumierMD "Jessner peel" is known as the Glow Peel. The Glow Peel by AlumierMD reflects the traditional Jessner Peel’s exact formulation with 14% salicylic acid, 14% lactic acid, and 14% resorcinol.

Superficial vs. Medium: Choosing Your Depth

One of the most common questions we get is: "How much am I actually going to peel?"

Chemical peels are generally categorized as superficial, medium, or deep. A Jessner Peel is traditionally a medium-depth peel. This means the solution penetrates through the outermost layers of the skin to trigger a deep clinical “reset.”

However, the beauty of a Jessner is its flexibility. As clinicians, we can control the depth by how many "passes" or layers we apply. One or two layers might give you a superficial refresh with minimal downtime. Three or more layers will move it into that medium-depth territory where the real transformation happens.

During the process, we look for something called "clinical frosting." This is a temporary white appearance on the skin caused by protein coagulation. It’s a key signal to your clinician that the peel has reached the desired depth to trigger your skin's renewal process.

What is it used for?

We use the Jessner for a wide range of concerns:

  • Acne and congestion: It’s incredible for clearing out active breakouts and smoothing out the "bumps" under the skin.

  • Pigmentation and melasma: It helps break up those dark spots caused by the sun or hormonal changes.

  • Fine lines and wrinkles: By triggering the skin to heal itself, it encourages new, fresher skin cells to come to the surface.

  • Acne scars: It can help diminish the appearance of shallow scarring over time.

Why the "Pre-Peel" Prep is Non-Negotiable

Our chemical peel services are a non-invasive medical, cosmetic procedure that requires skin preparation beginning at least 2 weeks before your treatment. To get the best outcome, proper prep is not optional.

A 4-week AlumierMD Prep & Enhance kit may be required for certain skin types and specific chemical peels to reduce any risk of hyperpigmentation. While not every skin type requires this 4-week preparation, these hand-selected products are designed to prime your skin to respond better, and enhance the effectiveness of your chemical peel treatment. Since the AlumierMD Glow Peel is the strongest chemical peel we offer, a Prep & Enhance kit may be needed.

During a complimentary consultation, our Medical Aesthetician will assess your skin type, concerns, and treatment goals to determine whether a Prep & Enhance Kit is right for you. Each kit includes a medical-grade retinol resurfacing serum to help strengthen skin resilience prior to treatment and promote more even penetration of the chemical peel for consistent results. (See our General Chemical Peel Preparation & Post Treatment Care at the end of this blog).

What does recovery look like?

For about a week after a medium-depth Jessner, you’re going to look a bit "crispy."

  • Days 1-2: Your skin will feel tight and might look a bit red or bronzed.

  • Day 3: This is usually when the peeling starts, often around the mouth first.

  • Days 4-6: This is the peak peeling phase. The skin will flake away in sheets. It’s not painful, but it’s very visible.

  • Day 7: Usually, by day seven, the old skin has shed, and you’re looking at that fresh, "new skin" glow.

The Golden Rule: You cannot pick at the peeling skin. If you pull off skin that isn’t ready to come off, you risk scarring or causing new dark spots. You have to let it shed on its own timeline.

A Note on Safety (Please, No At-Home Peels)

You can find "Jessner Solution" for sale on the internet, but please don't do it. Because this is a medical-grade treatment, the risks of doing it yourself are very real. If you leave it on too long, or if your skin isn't prepped correctly, you can end up with permanent scarring or chemical burns. This is a procedure that belongs in a clinical setting with a professional who knows how to monitor your skin’s reaction in real-time.

Frequently Asked Questions 

Is a Jessner Peel worth it?

Absolutely. Because it uses three different acids at high concentrations, it addresses multiple skin issues at once. If you feel like your skin has plateaued with standard facials, a Jessner is often the "reset" you need to see a visible difference in texture and tone.

How many sessions of a Jessner Peel are needed?

While some patients see a significant improvement after just one session, we typically recommend a series of 3 to 6 peels spaced about 4 weeks apart for corrective results (like acne scarring or deep pigmentation).

Who should avoid a Jessner Peel?

Chemical peels are not suitable for those on Accutane, those who are pregnant or breastfeeding, have open wounds or sores, have certain inflammatory skin conditions (like active cold sores or rosacea), sunburns, or are prone to keloid scarring. Additionally, because one of the ingredients (salicylic acid) is related to aspirin, those with an aspirin allergy should not receive chemical peels. We always screen for these during your assessment.

For individuals who have sensitive skin or specific skin types, our Medical Aesthetician may recommend starting with a gentler AlumierMD chemical peel. From there, you may be able to gradually progress to a Jessner (Glow) peel as your skin builds tolerance. This treatment plan might also be paired with an AlumierMD Prep & Enhance Kit to prepare your skin safely.

Can I wear makeup after a Jessner Peel?

We recommend avoiding makeup for at least the first 24 to 48 hours while the skin is in its most sensitive state. Once the physical peeling begins (around day 3), makeup often doesn't sit well on the flaking skin anyway, so most patients prefer to stick with the Recovery Balm, and Sheer Hydration SPF 40 included in your AlumierMD Post-Procedure Treatment kit until the shedding is complete.

Is it right for you?

The Jessner Peel has been a staple in aesthetics for decades for one simple reason: it works. If you feel like your skin has plateaued and you’re ready for a significant change in your texture and tone, a chemical peel might be the answer.

Every journey at PHI starts with a conversation. We’ll look at your skin, talk about your goals, and make sure we’re preparing your skin appropriately and choosing the depth and formula that will give you the "reset" you’ve been looking for.

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General Chemical Peel Preparation

AlumierMD Glow Peel 

The Jessner Peel at PHI - AlumierMD Glow Peel 

Post-Treatment care 

Aftercare is a necessary step for protecting your new skin and ensuring the best results. Post-treatment guidelines vary slightly based on the type of peel you receive. Once your treatment is complete, Ava will guide 

AlumierMD Glow Peel 

The Jessner Peel at PHI - AlumierMD Glow Peel 

For quick reference, save our Chemical Peel Prep & Aftercare Instagram post!

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What is Dull Skin? (And How to Get Your Glow Back)